Buenos Aires Tango in Buenos

Buenos Aires Tango in Buenos.
April 9.

I needed freedom for the day as I have not been alone for more than ten minutes in about 6 weeks.  So, I headed downtown by myself to gain my independence again and to get a feel for Buenos Aires without just following someone around to see the city having no idea where I am.

I headed to Florida Street to where the money changers are as I needed to get rid of about $25 U.S. worth of Uruguayan money.  The official rate is 34 Argentinian pesos for 100 Uruguayan pesos.  I aimed for 35.  Florida street is lined with people yelling “Cambio.”  I made a deal with a guy on the street who confirmed he would pay me 35/100 and he took me for about a two block walk away from Florida street to a building we entered, and went up the elevator to the third floor where we found a small room and a woman standing behind a glass window.  She would not give me 35/100, and instead offered me only 30/100.  I told her that I would keep shopping.  The hustler who brought me there tried to say, “It is only 5 pesos per 100 difference,” so I tried to say, “It is only 5 pesos per 100 difference…?”  Better their loss than mine, so I left.

The exact same thing happened a second time when I walked back to Florida street and a man agreed to my rate and then we walked a couple of blocks to a building and then a man behind a window man scoffed at my 35/100 demands for my money.  So, I headed back to the street where I met another hustler who agreed to my price and brought me into a kiosk right on the street where a man traded me Uruguayan for Argentinean right there.  Boom.  Done.  35/100.  It it important to have principles about not being cheated.  It takes time, often more than the money is worth, but it saves feeling like a fool.

Then I headed for Confiteria Ideal to a matinee tango show and lesson close by for some Buenos Aires Tango in Buenos.  It was 40 pesos to watch or 60 pesos to watch and get a lesson.  I was stared into by two different ladies in their 50’s.  Most of the crowd was older, and the dance-floor seemed to be graced with scalps dusted by grey.  When I went to the bar to get a drink, I looked at all of the tables and everyone was drinking water.  I should have known; older people dancing matinee Buenos Aires Tango in Buenos does not equal ‘boozy party.’
– The music was four tango songs together, followed by a modern song where everyone would stop dancing to change partners.  Tango is really old music and the separation songs were Spanish cover versions of Tom Petty and non-tango ditties such as AC/DC’s ‘Hell’s Bells.’  And then back to fiddle and accordion tango music and everyone would have new partners.
– I liked the seriousness on some of the dancers faces for the Buenos Aires Tango in Buenos.  The tango is no laughing matter.  There were 13 couples on the dance-floor and there were no smiles on 26 faces.
– The woman’s forehead goes against the mans cheek.  The woman’s left breast is pressed tightly against a man’s right breast.  Some women are hanging on with tightly closed eyes.  I think I could gauge how people preform sexually from their face and their dance.  You can see their sexual speed, their delicacies, and their aggression in the tango.  It certainly is a very sexual dance: a woman running the top of her foot down a mans calf is probably a very nice feeling.
– Older women look pretty good dancing the tango.  But, when they stop dancing the look pretty old.
– Some of the older men were wearing running shoes.  I guess dancing shoes must start to ache at some point in age.

I took a lesson from a man who had me dance with an older woman for my Buenos Aires Tango in Buenos experience.  I can silly dance for hours, but I am terrible at dancing to a routine.  It was fun though, but hard work for me.

After Buenos Aires Tango in Buenos, I headed out on the town and found cheap pizza.  A slice was the equivalent of $0.85 U.S.  I ordered a slice and a beer, but all I had was the equivalent of a $1 or a $10 for bills.  The lady behind the counter told me that I was not allowed to have a beer and took my $1 for the pizza so that she would not have to give me change for the $10.  Awesome!  Things like that make me smile.  Never in North America or Europe: they would never miss a sale and more income.  Maybe money is not so important in cultures here, and perhaps that makes the people happier…

I found a bar later on and then I headed to Palmera to where Zora lives so that getting home would be easier.  I found a couple of little bars, pretended I could speak Spanish to the bartenders until they started asking me questions, and then I took a cab home.  I showed the cabbie Zora’s address written in my notepad and then I pretended I was deaf and could not speak so that he would not cheat me and create a long journey back to Zora’s.  He seemed to be really happy to drive a special needs home.  I am not sure if I should feel guilty about that or not.